Alaska Hotels, Anchorage, Cordova, Fairbanks, Girdwood, Haines & More - AK

No other region in North America possesses the mythical aura of ALASKA ; even the name - a derivation of Alayeska , an Athabascan word meaning "great land of the west" - fires the imagination. Few who see this land of gargantuan ice fields, sweeping tundra, glacially excavated valleys, lush rainforests, deep fjords and occasionally smoking volcanoes leave unimpressed. Wildlife may be under threat elsewhere, but here it is abundant, with Kodiak bears standing twelve feet tall, moose stopping traffic in downtown Anchorage, wolves prowling through national parks, bald eagles circling over the trees, and rivers solid with fifty-plus-pound salmon.

Alaska's sheer size is hard to comprehend: more than twice the size of Texas, it contains America's northernmost, westernmost and, because the Aleutian Islands stretch across the 180th meridian, its easternmost point. If superimposed onto the Lower 48 (the rest of the continental United States) it would stretch from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and its coastline is longer than the rest of the US combined. All but three of the nation's twenty highest peaks are found within its boundaries and one glacier alone is twice the size of Wales.

A mere 600,000 people live in this huge state - over forty percent of them in Anchorage - of whom only one-fifth were born here: as a rule of thumb, the more winters you have endured, the more Alaskan you are. Often referred to as the " Last Frontier ," Alaska in many ways mirrors the American West of the nineteenth century: an endless, undeveloped space in which to stake one's claim and set up a life without interference. Or at least that's how Alaskans would like it to be. Throughout this century tens of thousands have been lured by the promise of wealth, first by gold and then by fishing, logging and, most recently, oil. However, Alaska's 86,000 Native peoples , who don't have the option of returning to the Lower 48 if things don't work out, have been greatly marginalized, though Native corporations set up as a result of pre-oil boom land deals have increasing economic clout.

Traveling around Alaska still demands a spirit of adventure, and to make the most of the state you need to have an enthusiasm for striking out on your own and roughing it a bit. Binoculars are an absolute must, as is bug spray; the mosquito is referred to as the "Alaska state bird" and it takes industrial-strength repellent to keep it away. On top of that there's the climate , though Alaska is far from the popular misconception of being one big icebox. While winter temperatures of -40°F are commonplace in Fairbanks, the most touristed areas - the southeast and the Kenai Peninsula - enjoy a maritime climate (45-65°F in summer) similar to that of the Pacific Northwest, meaning much more rain (in some towns 180-plus inches per year) than snow. Remarkably, the summer temperature in the Interior often reaches 80°F.

Alaska is far more expensive than most other states: apart from two dozen hostels there's little budget accommodation, and eating and drinking will set you back at least twenty percent more than in the Lower 48 (perhaps fifty percent in more remote regions). Still, experiencing Alaska on a low budget is possible, though it requires planning and off-peak travel. From June to August room prices are crazy; May and September, when tariffs are relaxed and the weather only slightly chillier, are just as good times to go, and in April or October you'll have the place to yourself, albeit with a smaller range of places to stay and eat. Ground transportation , despite the long distances, is reasonable, with backpacker shuttles ferrying budget travelers between major centers. Winter , when hotels drop their prices by as much as half, is becoming an increasingly popular time to visit, particularly for the dazzling aurora borealis .

History

Alaska has been inhabited for longer than anywhere else in the Americas; it was here, across the broad plains of the "land bridge" that is now submerged below the Bering Sea, that humans first reached the "New World," most likely around 14,000 years ago. These first settlers can be classified into four groups, which lived within well-defined regions until whites arrived. The Aleut , in the inhospitable Aleutian Islands, built underground homes and hunted sea mammals such as walrus for food and clothing, while the nomadic Athabascan herded caribou in the Interior. The warrior Tlingit lived in the warmer coastal regions of the southeast, where food was plentiful, in contrast to the Eskimos (or, more correctly, Yupik and Inupiat), who inhabited the northwestern coast, living off fish and larger marine life. Descendants of all these groups remain in Alaska today; a few live in much the same way as their ancestors, though most have been integrated into the modern American way through conquest, rape, marriage and religion.

In 1741, Danish explorer Vitus Bering , working for the Tsar of Russia, became the first Caucasian to set foot on Alaskan soil and found huge numbers of fur seals and sea otters - whose treasured pelts were made into hats. Russians, and later Britons and Spaniards, joined in the ensuing slaughter, both of the otters and the Aleut, who were enslaved and forced to hunt on behalf of the fur traders. By 1799 the Russians had established their Alaskan capital at present-day Sitka, pushed down the coast as far as northern California and, in the process, decimated the sea otter colonies.

During the 1860s, limited returns and domestic economic problems forced Russia to sell its lands to America. On October 18, 1867, Secretary of State William Seward purchased what was disparagingly known as " Seward's Folly " or "Seward's Icebox" for $7.2 million - less than 2¢ per acre. Alaska soon turned out to be a literal gold mine with major discoveries at Juneau (1880), Nome (1898), and Fairbanks (1902). With logging companies and commercial fishing operations also descending upon Alaska, the government began to take a more active interest in its affairs and in 1959 Alaska became the 49th state .

Alaska's next boom followed the discovery of oil at Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean, and fortune-seekers headed to Alaska in the mid-1970s to build the trans-Alaska pipeline . Today, Alaska still derives about eighty percent of its wealth from oil and gas; indeed, each resident receives an annual dividend check of almost $2000. But the state is still in economic transition and continues to be prone to extreme boom-and-bust cycles. Once lucrative fishing and lumber industries are fast giving way to tourism as a source of income, and the ethical question of how best to use Alaskan lands in the future has led to bitter controversy, not least over the oil reserves under the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

Getting to Alaska

Alaska is a long way from the rest of the United States, and whichever way you get there is going to be expensive . Once you accept that, however, there is no question as to which is the most enjoyable method - the memorable ferry trip on the Alaska Marine Highway.

By Air - Anchorage is no longer the major air crossroads it once was, but it's still easy to fly to Alaska. It is, however, very expensive. Most but not all flights from the Lower 48 are routed through Seattle. The most frequent service from the west coast is operated by Alaska Airlines/ERA Aviation (tel 1-800/252-7522, ), whose money-saving package enables you to fly to towns like Juneau, Sitka, Cordova and Fairbanks at little extra cost. Round-trip fares from Seattle to Anchorage are around $460 if bought three weeks in advance, but occasional short-notice deals turn up for under $200 - check the website. Better still, foreigners traveling from outside North America can make use of the "Best of the West" airpass.

By Sea - The ferries of the state-run Alaska Marine Highway System (tel 1-800/642-0066, ) cover many areas unreachable by car, currently operating in two separate regions with an occasional "inter-tie" trip linking them. The popular southeast route runs a thousand miles from Bellingham, just north of Seattle, through a wonderland of pristine waters, narrow fjords and untouched forests to Skagway, at the northern end of the Inside Passage stopping at Ketchikan, Wrangell, Sitka, Juneau and Haines. The whole trip takes three days and costs $277 for walk-on passengers, $624 for a small car, $224 for a motorbike and $45 for bicycles and canoes. It is possible to sleep - and even to pitch a tent - on the "solarium," a covered, heated upper deck, while a two-berth cabin costs from $235. The southwest ferry system connects the Kenai Peninsula and Prince William Sound to the Aleutians, and the new Kennicott ferry now links the two systems by running between Juneau and Seward once a month in summer. Throughout the system, section passenger fares depend on distance traveled: $180 from Bellingham to Ketchikan; $59 from Ketchikan to Sitka; $29 from Sitka to Juneau; and $166 from Juneau to Seward. While the ferry is a bargain for foot passengers prepared to rough it, an extended voyage with vehicle and an overnight cabin (both of which should be booked in advance) becomes very expensive. If you're driving up from the Lower 48, consider boarding a ferry at Prince Rupert in British Columbia, a day's drive north of Seattle. This saves the cost of one day at sea from Bellingham without missing much of the natural spectacle.

By Road - For many people, the drive up to Alaska through Canada is one of the major highlights of a visit to the state. Originally built by the military in just eight months, and with a fearsome reputation, the 1500-mile Alaska Highway is now fully paved (though long sections are often under repair) and equipped with sufficient service stations, campgrounds and hotels along the way. It remains as beautiful as ever, and still demands a spirit of adventure from drivers who attempt it.

No direct buses run to Alaska, though for around $380 (sometimes considerably less) you can hop on a Greyhound in Seattle and, after a few transfers over two grueling days, reach Whitehorse in the Yukon, from where Alaskon Express continues to Haines or Skagway in the southeast, or on the longer haul to Fairbanks and Anchorage.

Getting to Alaska

Getting around Alaska on the cheap can be tough; public transportation is limited, and many areas are only accessible by boat or plane, which is quick and convenient but invariably pricey. With little traffic, hitching is hard work, but is more acceptable, and safer, than elsewhere.

With the exception of the ferry system, Anchorage is very much the hub of Alaska with several bus companies running to major destinations: Seward with Seward Bus Line (tel 907/224-3608, ; $35); Homer with Homer Stage Lines (tel 907/235-2252; $45); Denali ($49) and Fairbanks ($69) with the Parks Highway Express (tel 1-888/600-6001, ); and Valdez ($71) and Whitehorse, Yukon ($206) with Gray Line's Alaskon Express (tel 1-800/544-2206, ).

The expensive Alaska Railroad runs nearly five hundred miles from Seward north through Anchorage to Fairbanks, with a spur to Whittier for ferries to Valdez. One-way fares from Anchorage are: Denali, $125; Fairbanks $175; and Seward $55.

Driving around Alaska in summer requires no special skills, though the less traveled routes often have a gravel surface and caution is required. Be aware, however, that wildlife, especially moose, can be a danger any time. In spring and fall you should be prepared for snow, and it is wise to carry a survival kit , particularly in winter, as traffic can be sparse even on major routes. Conditions on the roads can change rapidly - call 907/456-7623 for information, or 1-800/478-7656 for a pre-recorded hotline.

Travel by plane is not always more expensive than other methods, especially if you can map out your itinerary in advance with the state's largest operator, Alaska Airlines, which flies to most major communities and uses subcontractors such as ERA Aviation (tel 1-800/866-8394, ), Reeve Aleutian (tel 1-800/544-2248), and PenAir (tel 1-800/448-4226, ) to get to smaller towns. If you are traveling from outside North America, consider pre-purchasing an Alaska Airlines "Best of the West" airpass that allows you to reserve up to ten one-way flights either within Alaska ($99 each leg), or from outside the state (essentially Seattle or LA to Anchorage; $149), or any combination of these. Chartering a plane might sound extravagant but can be an inexpensive alternative for groups of four or more, and may be the crowning glory of an Alaskan vacation. To arrange this, contact any operator of small planes (every town has at least one). ERA Aviation, Reeve Aleutian and PenAir are good places to start, though they may refer you to another company.

The Alaska Pass
If you are planning to keep up a frenetic pace you may make savings by buying an Alaska Pass , PO Box 351, Vashon, WA 98070 (tel 206/463-6550 or 1-800/248-7598, ), which allows unlimited surface transport on participating ferries, trains and buses throughout Alaska, British Columbia and Yukon Territory. There are two types of Alaska Pass: one is valid for a number of consecutive days of travel (15 days for $649; 22 days for $749); the other covers a number of travel days over a longer period (8 days in 12 for $549; 12 days in 21 for $699).

Best Of Alaska

Aurora Borealis
Winter visitors to Alaska see the skies ablaze with the shimmering veils of the Northern Lights.

Sitka
Russian influence blended with Native heritage and fabulous coastal scenery make this one of Alaska's most diverting towns.

The Chilkoot Trail
Follow in the (frozen) footsteps of the Klondike prospectors on this demanding 33-mile trail near Skagway.

Talkeetna
Every Alaska visitor's favorite small town is the base for superb flightseeing trips around Mount McKinley.

Denali National Park
Alaska's finest park offers superb mountain scenery and incomparable wildlife spotting around the highest peak in North America.

Anchorage Bars
Anchorage is an exceptionally atmospheric place to drink: while the city itself is relatively cosmopolitan, many of its bars, such as sawdust-on-the-floor Chilkoot Charlie's, are characterized by a wild-frontier-saloon feel.

Dalton Highway
This lonely and grueling 500-mile road leads north from Fairbanks to the Arctic Ocean.

Salmon
Join the anglers who line up elbow-to-elbow in the salmon-bearing rivers of the Kenai Peninsula, "Anchorage's Playground," where the savory species can weigh as much as 30 pounds or more.

Juneau
Born as a roughneck mining town in 1880, Juneau is surprisingly urbane. The city is also close to breathtaking glacier vistas and choice whale-watching spots.

Wrangell-St Elias National Park
Solitude-seekers should head for the pristine glaciers and fjords of remote Wrangell-St Elias National Park to watch bears, caribou and other wildlife.

Explore Alaska